Tuesday, January 21, 2020

战乱与和平 一探柬埔寨红色时期的历史

战乱与和平 一探柬埔寨红色时期的历史



闻名于世的“高棉微笑”,独特精致的石雕,令人叹为观止。(薛渤杨摄)

作者在吴哥窟感受到诸神的纯净,在战争博物馆看到的展品让他感受到红高棉时期的悲惨。

提起柬埔寨,人们第一个想到的也许就是吴哥窟(Angkor Wat)。说实话,自己对这个陌生的国家一直没有太多感觉,直到耳朵被“西哈诺亲王”、“红色高棉”词条磨出了茧子,才决定展开这次的柬埔寨三天之旅。

背上行囊,坐上TukTuk,我们在柬埔寨西北城市暹粒观看吴哥的建筑,触碰高棉的文化。

吴哥窟建造者透彻领悟人性



荒烟蔓草,伫立在古老文明的吴哥寺中央眺望远方。

“Angkor”即“城市”,“Wat”则是“寺庙”的意思。它曾是古高棉王国的首都,与埃及金字塔、中国万里长城、印度尼西亚婆罗浮屠千佛坛并称为东方四大奇观,同时也是世界七大奇迹之一。

游玩吴哥窟,多少还是要事先简单了解一下它的历史,不然真的只是走马观花。吴哥城初建于九世纪,是东南亚史上最宏伟的一座都城,其鼎盛时期据估算,人口达到上百万,规模之大远超罗马城。

公元1431年,泰国人入侵高棉,高棉人被迫离开吴哥,在金边建立了新的首都,从此吴哥湮没在丛林之中。直到1860年,法国植物学家亨利·穆奥(Henri Mouhot)为了收集植物标本来到暹粒,吴哥城才得以重见天日。

吴哥城里建筑墙体都呈现出一种青铜色,冰冷、沉重,仿佛给人一种快要窒息的感觉。

墙上的头像矗立千年,诸神姿态栩栩如生,历经风雨微笑依旧。这些笑脸安详而静谧,从容又纯净,仿佛有一种穿越时空与万物的力量,令人震撼。

台湾知名画家、诗人与作家蒋勋在《吴哥之美》中曾写到:“吴哥寺被誉为建筑的奇迹,奇迹是建造者如此透彻领悟人性。他并不是在盖房子,他为这个城市留下心灵的空间,是‘城中之城’,是肉身里心灵的留白。”

在实地探访之后,这段话非常值得反复咀嚼,回味无穷。

吴哥的修复工作一直在进行,直到现在也没有结束。《古墓奇兵》《花样年华》等电影都曾于此取景。

残酷的红高棉大屠杀



位于暹粒的战争博物馆,锈迹斑斑的军事装备随处可见。

至于柬埔寨的近代史,更是令人为之震撼。早前因为对红高棉大屠杀这段残酷历史有所耳闻,因此当天的行程特意让导游安排参观博物馆。

先简单介绍一下柬埔寨的近代史:1863年,柬埔寨沦为法国保护国,1940年被日军占领,1945年日本投降后又被法国重新占领。柬埔寨在1953年11月9日宣布独立,但却在60年代爆发内战。先是政变,然后在波博执政时期发生了骇人听闻的红高棉大屠杀,四年期间(1975年至1979年)期间杀死了200多万人(相当于柬埔寨四分之一的人口),再到越南1978年入侵(解放)柬埔寨并于1989年撤军后,柬埔寨才逐渐恢复和平。

导游带我们来到了一个特别不起眼的战争博物馆。坦白讲,来到这个博物馆大门时,我并没有对它抱有太高的期望,但是在买完门票进来后(只花了5美元,约6.70新元),一切都改变了。

据说,博物馆本身就位于一个古老的地雷场和杀戮场,它记录着一段残酷可悲的战争历史。大部分展品都是锈迹斑斑的军事装备,包括枪支和弹药。整个博物馆并不花哨,但它给人的那种身临其境之感,让人真切感受到了红高棉时期的悲惨。

最引人注目的是展示这些故事的信息板,字里行间透露着当时的恐怖生活氛围,揭露了当年波博执政时期的黑暗。

美国、苏联、越南和中国都为当年柬埔寨战争提供过武器和炸弹。原始照片让人百感交集,看到红高棉制服更是让人毛骨悚然。

三天时间很短,这趟柬埔寨暹粒之行是一场文化之旅,吴哥窟得玩,但这战争博物馆更是不能错过。和平不易,以史为鉴。

~联合早报~

Monday, November 25, 2019

The motodop driver, porter who guides tourists in Phnom Tbeng

The motodop driver, porter who guides tourists in Phnom Tbeng



A view of the Tbeng Meanchey natural heritage site in Preah Vihear province. Yousos Apdoulrashim

Rem Thoeun is one of many villagers who live near the peak of Phnom Tbeng, earning his income in the eco-tourism sector at Preah Vihear province’s Tbeng Meanchey natural heritage site.

Thoeun earns most of his living as a motodop driver (a motorbike taxi rider) transporting tourists to popular local attractions – including Tbeng Waterfall, the Three Rock Pagoda and the Taing You waterfall and pagoda – in and around Phnom Tbeng.

But he also works as a porter, carrying things from the mountain’s foot to the peak.

Thoeun says his only option is to take up jobs requiring hard labour to support his family as he did not have educational opportunities as a child.

Some 24 years ago, when the last remnants of Pol Pot’s Khmer Rouge militants were fighting the government, Thoeun’s family moved him from the line of fire and went to find a better life on the mountain.

Thoeun, 27, told The Post: “I’ve lived here since I was three years old when my parents moved us from Kulen district because of the fighting.

“They were worried about safety and kept shifting from place to place before finally settling on Phnom Tbeng. After the whole country was freed of the rebels, we decided to remain here permanently, even though at the time we barely survived going up and down the mountain [for money].”

Growing up on the mountain, Thoeun did not have the opportunity to study at school or learn a trade.

So though he now wants to find a new job outside his backbreaking labour on Phnom Tbeng, Thoeun says he does not know what else he can do.



Rem Thoeun (second left) says his only option is to take up jobs requiring hard labour to support his family as he did not have educational opportunities as a child. Hong Menea

“I want to find a job in town but I don‘t know what to do. I want to start a new life that can earn me a higher income.

“I first studied in Grade 2 when I was 15, but I found it difficult as I was pretty old for that low grade,” says the illiterate father of two.

Driving a tourist on the back of his motorbike, Thoeun navigates along the muddy trail, taking the time to describe the scenery to his passenger.

Driving past a stack of rocks he remarks, “they [locals] are superstitious about this place. They believe if they can pile the rocks up high, it will boost their fortunes”.

On the days when Thoeun works as a guide, he picks up his customers around 9am. They have lunch at Dombok Khmao Pagoda before heading to a waterfall located about 1km from the temple.

Thoeun says tourists also love hiking to the Three Rock Pagoda before visiting Taing You waterfall and pagoda.

Tourists can choose to spend a night at Taing You Pagoda or return in the evening, with a round trip costing 150,000 riel ($37) per person.

Thoeun says: “Most tourists hike up Phnom Tbeng via the 1,345 steps of the Three Rock Pagoda. Then, they head to Taing You temple and the waterfall. There is another option ... they can take the 15km trek up an unpaved trail from Bakkam village, in Chheanmuk commune, but it is not popular.”



Rem Thoeun (second left) says his only option is to take up jobs requiring hard labour to support his family as he did not have educational opportunities as a child. Hong Menea

At the Three Rock Pagoda, where his client prayed for happiness at the shrine and enjoyed the valley view from the mountain top, Thoeun takes a break and sips a cold drink at a small store.

He is stood among a dozen porters standing at the mountain peak, waiting to receive bookings for porter and transport jobs.

“I also work as a porter to carry things to the mountain peak. But sometimes I have nothing to do as most people don’t bring heavy items and they don’t know we offer such services,” says Thoeun.

Like the other porters, Thoeun gets 30,000 riel to carry a load of between 30 and 40kg.

“Occasionally, generous people give me 40,000 to 50,000 riel to carry a pack of milled rice. I can carry things about three or four times per day. But usually, I only get one job per day, or nothing at all,” he says.

For those who plan to visit Phnom Tbeng and need transportation, Thoeun can be contacted via telephone (088 773 3062).

~Phnom Penh Post~

Sunday, November 24, 2019

Exploring the Kingdom’s highest mountain peak in Kampong Speu

Exploring the Kingdom’s highest mountain peak in Kampong Speu



Local guides recommend visitors spend at least three days in the forest to discover hidden treasures, explore haunted sites and bird watch for exquisite species. Hong Menea

Keo Rattana had to trek through thick bamboo jungles, climb steep inclines and snake his way up mountain cliffs by using a rope to make his way to the top of Kampong Speu province’s Oral Mountain – Cambodia’s highest peak.

Rattana is among thousands to have made the same arduous journey this year, with 3,500 people having already overcome the same challenges in order to conquer Oral.

“We’ve noticed that the number of tourists visiting has jumped dramatically compared to previous years,” says Srae Ken Community chief Chhoeun Chhim.

“Our community has provided services to about 3,500 visitors in the first half of this year and we expect at least 500 more [climbers] by the end of 2019,” says Chhim.

Local guides recommend visitors spend at least three days and two nights in the forest, which is enough to discover hidden treasures, explore haunted sites and bird watch for rare and exquisite species which call the far eastern edge of the Cardamom Mountains home.



There are a number of rare birds, including the chestnut-headed partridge (identifiable by white strips above its wings and white stripes below its belly) and Cambodian Laughingthrush – both of which are only found in Cambodia, according to Chhim.

Rattana says that almshouses nestled in the bamboo forests served as an oasis of sorts. The first one – about 3km into the trek – had a small space for cooking and access to enough water to satisfy up to five to six people.

Often climbers choose to quicken their pace and skip the first almshouse in order to recover at the Hermit Stop almshouse – which is not only larger, but also has more water (particularly in the rainy season).

“Most climbers leave behind supplies and water for people behind them,” reveals Rattana.

There are a number of rare birds, including the chestnut-headed partridge, identifiable by white strips above its wings and white stripes below its belly, and the Cambodian Laughingthrush. Hong Menea

Eight kilometres from the first alm house is the final rest area – where visitors who prefer not to camp outside spend the night in a cool, solar-powered wooden hut with additional structures adjacent to them centring a shrine. Be warned, however, as temperatures there can drop as low as six degrees Celsius.

There, visitors make it a point to see the remains of a Cambodian International Airlines plane which crashed in 1974.

“Even though it was overrun by plants and moss years ago, the quality of the metal is still good,” says Theang Soth – who has been guiding climbers since 2002.

“You can even see remnants such as clothing and aircraft debris that still remain because Cambodian’s believe that it’s bad to take belongings from the dead,” adds Soth, 47.

It’s experiences like this that make people stop in their tracks and forgo the frivolities of snapping selfies in order to appreciate the preciousness of their journey.

Always the adventurers, Rattana and his friends didn’t pack any camping equipment – preferring to drink water through natural sources, filtered through small filtration devices, and dining on dried and ready-to-eat meals.

“We didn’t have to bring many things, even clothes; we only brought a few changes, one to wear and one to keep in by backpack. As I ascend, I wash the used clothing and put on a fresh T-shirt and shorts,” says Rattana.

 

Aside from Srae Ken Commune, where Rattana and his friends chose to begin their climb, additional tours are offered in nearby Outou and Trapang Chhrey communes.

Commune chief Chhim recommends hiring local guides to help navigate the potentially treacherous terrain and to help carry supplies. The service costs $35 per day for international tourists, who can also pre-order food for their climb.

The road leading to Srae Ken can be bumpy – with large rocks and potholes leading to the commune – visitors should allot at least half a day for a tractor ride to reach the foot of the mountain.

Those intimidated by the thought of undertaking the feat should know that it was the first time Rattana had ever tried mountain climbing.

“It was my first experience and now I have reached the highest mountain in country with my friends,” boasts Rattana.

He added that the most difficult part of the journey was the 3km trek through bamboo forest.

”It’s hot and stuffy because it’s dense. If possible, it’s best to begin early in the morning.

“If we had begun our summit in the late morning, we would hardly be able to breathe and it would prevent us from reaching the mountain’s peak.”

~Phnom Penh Post~

Tuesday, November 12, 2019

King Sihamoni presides over opening of Water Festival

King Sihamoni presides over opening of Water Festival



King Norodom Sihamoni presided over the lighting of the lantern barges, representing the many ministries, in front of the Royal Palace on Sunday as the first day of the annual Water Festival celebrations went smoothly.

Bun Veasna, an official at the National Committee for Organising National and International Festivals, told The Post on Sunday that the first day of the festival had gone smoothly.

Government leaders including Prime Minister Hun Sen, Senate President Say Chhum, President of the National Assembly Heng Samrin and Minister of Interior Sar Kheng attended the event with the King.

“The first boat racing event went smoothly like every year. We finished the first round in the morning, and finished the second in the afternoon,” Veasna said.

National Police said they had deployed nearly 20,000 police officers in Phnom Penh to provide security at the festival, which ends on Tuesday.

On his Facebook page, Prime Minister Hun Sen said Cambodians were enjoying the festival with big smiles on their faces. He said security forces were safeguarding the participants as well as the boat crews.

“Besides enjoying the boat racing on the river, people can shop at many stalls. May I wish all our compatriots happiness and good luck,” Hun Sen wrote.

Festival goer Sok Chea said he was enjoying himself as it was one of the biggest events of the year. He said he never misses it.

“There are fewer people here today compared to the first day of the Water Festival last year. But I think there will be more people tomorrow,” Chea said.

Daun Ley from Phnom Penh said she appreciated the security arrangements that had enabled her to enjoy the festival without fear.

“Along the streets, it is very safe because there is security taking care of us. I have no concerns and I am enjoying myself,” Ley said.



Boat racing on the Tonle Sap river on Sunday.

~Phnom Penh Post~

Wednesday, July 10, 2019

成为亚细安物流枢纽 泰国要建跨亚洲多国高铁网络

成为亚细安物流枢纽 泰国要建跨亚洲多国高铁网络



泰媒报道,高铁工程主要分为泰国到老挝及中国南部、泰国到柬埔寨、泰国到马来西亚和新加坡,以及曼谷到清迈四条路线,全长达3193公里,造价约914亿新元。

(曼谷讯)泰国政府希望通过一个横跨亚洲多国的高铁网络,致力推动泰国发展成为亚细安的物流枢纽。

《曼谷邮报》报道,这项庞大工程主要分为泰国到老挝及中国南部、泰国到柬埔寨、泰国到马来西亚和新加坡,以及曼谷到清迈四条路线,全长达3193公里,造价约2.07万亿泰铢(约914亿新元)。

可从中国开到新加坡

泰国交通部副部长拜林说,泰国政府希望这个高铁网络可以从中国一路开往新加坡。他说:“到时候,人们就可从曼谷城区挽赐(Bang Sue)乘高铁北上中国北京或南下新加坡。”

连接曼谷和毗邻老挝的东北部廊开府(Nong Khai)的第一阶段工程正在兴建,预计2023年竣工。这一段铁路长达608公里,落成之后,将会成为曼谷通往老挝的主要运输系统。

下一段铁路将把泰国和老挝边境与老挝首都万象连接,最后一段铁路则会将万象与中国云南省边城磨憨镇相连接。

据一个不愿具名的老挝官员说,万象与磨憨镇之间长达414公里的铁路至今已经完成了55%,衔接万象与廊开的铁路工程也已经展开。

他说:“这是一个将我们从内陆国家转变为有土地联系的国家。”他指,目前人们要从万象前往磨憨镇需要两天,但如后有了高铁,来往这两地“就只需要三个小时”。

老挝希望跨国高铁网络能促进经济发展。受访官员预计,有了这条高铁路线,未来到访老挝的中国游客每年可能多达1000万至2000万人次。

泰国也希望借助这个跨国高铁网络来刺激其经济发展,尤其是该铁路网络将把廊开与泰国东部经济走廊(EEC)衔接起来;泰国东部经济走廊是在泰国东部沿海三府北柳、春武里和罗勇设立的国家经济特区,旨在将泰国东部打造为一个现代智能生产的工业中心。

由于项目的重要性和成本非常高,政府应该认真地与中国谈判,并研究随后的利益和条件。从长远来看,我们需要能自己照顾铁路的一切运作,而毋需依靠中国。——泰中战略研究中心前主任阿克松斯里

泰国国立法政大学经济学院副教授、泰中战略研究中心前主任阿克松斯里表示,高铁网络是中国倡议“一带一路”计划的一部分,落成后将会提高泰国的竞争力和与邻国的联系。

不过她指出,发展高铁网络存在一定担忧,主要是在软件和系统安全方面,其他可能影响铁路网络建造项目的障碍还包括“高建筑和征收成本”。放眼望去,泰国日后决定购买中国科技时,也必须明智地进行谈判。

她说:“由于这个项目的重要性和其成本非常高,政府应该认真地与中国谈判,并研究随后的利益和条件。从长远来看,我们需要能自己照顾铁路的一切运作,而毋需依靠中国。”

~联合早报~

Thursday, July 4, 2019

泰柬列车中断45年 泰下周一重启通向边境车站服务

泰柬列车中断45年 泰下周一重启通向边境车站服务



泰国东部最靠近柬埔寨边界的班克隆卢卡(Ban Klong luk)列车站,将来旅客可从这个站续程进入柬埔寨。(互联网)

泰国与柬埔寨两个月前重新开通中断了45年的跨境铁路,跨境通车至今还未落实,不过泰国境内通向边境车站的列车服务已定在下周一开始。

泰柬两国在4月22日在边境举行了盛大的跨境铁路重开仪式,但列车服务需等到两国确定班车列表和其他相关细节之后才能启动。

泰国铁路局昨天(6月25日)宣布,泰国境内铁路段的列车服务将从7月1日开始。

新列车服务连接首都曼谷和沙缴府(Sa Kaeo)城镇阿兰雅(Aranyaprathet),直到班克隆卢卡(Ban Klong luk)边境车站;每天来回各两趟。

按协议,这些列车服务将来可直达柬埔寨西北部边陲小镇波贝(Poipet),然后直达柬埔寨首都金边。从波贝到金边的370公里长铁路已在去年重开,不过,柬方至今还未宣布什么时候启动通往波贝的列车服务。

柬埔寨的铁路是由法国殖民政府建造,后来大多毁于战乱中。从波贝到金边的线路也在1973年内战期间被破坏和停用,近期得到亚洲开发银行出资协助重建。

泰柬铁路相通之后,来往两国的交通时间将缩短,对双边贸易和跨境旅游业都有好处。

~早报网~