The motodop driver, porter who guides tourists in Phnom Tbeng
A view of the Tbeng Meanchey natural heritage site in Preah Vihear province. Yousos Apdoulrashim
Rem Thoeun is one of many villagers who live near the peak of Phnom Tbeng, earning his income in the eco-tourism sector at Preah Vihear province’s Tbeng Meanchey natural heritage site.
Thoeun earns most of his living as a motodop driver (a motorbike taxi rider) transporting tourists to popular local attractions – including Tbeng Waterfall, the Three Rock Pagoda and the Taing You waterfall and pagoda – in and around Phnom Tbeng.
But he also works as a porter, carrying things from the mountain’s foot to the peak.
Thoeun says his only option is to take up jobs requiring hard labour to support his family as he did not have educational opportunities as a child.
Some 24 years ago, when the last remnants of Pol Pot’s Khmer Rouge militants were fighting the government, Thoeun’s family moved him from the line of fire and went to find a better life on the mountain.
Thoeun, 27, told The Post: “I’ve lived here since I was three years old when my parents moved us from Kulen district because of the fighting.
“They were worried about safety and kept shifting from place to place before finally settling on Phnom Tbeng. After the whole country was freed of the rebels, we decided to remain here permanently, even though at the time we barely survived going up and down the mountain [for money].”
Growing up on the mountain, Thoeun did not have the opportunity to study at school or learn a trade.
So though he now wants to find a new job outside his backbreaking labour on Phnom Tbeng, Thoeun says he does not know what else he can do.
Rem Thoeun (second left) says his only option is to take up jobs requiring hard labour to support his family as he did not have educational opportunities as a child. Hong Menea
“I want to find a job in town but I don‘t know what to do. I want to start a new life that can earn me a higher income.
“I first studied in Grade 2 when I was 15, but I found it difficult as I was pretty old for that low grade,” says the illiterate father of two.
Driving a tourist on the back of his motorbike, Thoeun navigates along the muddy trail, taking the time to describe the scenery to his passenger.
Driving past a stack of rocks he remarks, “they [locals] are superstitious about this place. They believe if they can pile the rocks up high, it will boost their fortunes”.
On the days when Thoeun works as a guide, he picks up his customers around 9am. They have lunch at Dombok Khmao Pagoda before heading to a waterfall located about 1km from the temple.
Thoeun says tourists also love hiking to the Three Rock Pagoda before visiting Taing You waterfall and pagoda.
Tourists can choose to spend a night at Taing You Pagoda or return in the evening, with a round trip costing 150,000 riel ($37) per person.
Thoeun says: “Most tourists hike up Phnom Tbeng via the 1,345 steps of the Three Rock Pagoda. Then, they head to Taing You temple and the waterfall. There is another option ... they can take the 15km trek up an unpaved trail from Bakkam village, in Chheanmuk commune, but it is not popular.”
Rem Thoeun (second left) says his only option is to take up jobs requiring hard labour to support his family as he did not have educational opportunities as a child. Hong Menea
At the Three Rock Pagoda, where his client prayed for happiness at the shrine and enjoyed the valley view from the mountain top, Thoeun takes a break and sips a cold drink at a small store.
He is stood among a dozen porters standing at the mountain peak, waiting to receive bookings for porter and transport jobs.
“I also work as a porter to carry things to the mountain peak. But sometimes I have nothing to do as most people don’t bring heavy items and they don’t know we offer such services,” says Thoeun.
Like the other porters, Thoeun gets 30,000 riel to carry a load of between 30 and 40kg.
“Occasionally, generous people give me 40,000 to 50,000 riel to carry a pack of milled rice. I can carry things about three or four times per day. But usually, I only get one job per day, or nothing at all,” he says.
For those who plan to visit Phnom Tbeng and need transportation, Thoeun can be contacted via telephone (088 773 3062).
~Phnom Penh Post~
Exploring the Kingdom’s highest mountain peak in Kampong Speu
Local guides recommend visitors spend at least three days in the forest to discover hidden treasures, explore haunted sites and bird watch for exquisite species. Hong Menea
Keo Rattana had to trek through thick bamboo jungles, climb steep inclines and snake his way up mountain cliffs by using a rope to make his way to the top of Kampong Speu province’s Oral Mountain – Cambodia’s highest peak.
Rattana is among thousands to have made the same arduous journey this year, with 3,500 people having already overcome the same challenges in order to conquer Oral.
“We’ve noticed that the number of tourists visiting has jumped dramatically compared to previous years,” says Srae Ken Community chief Chhoeun Chhim.
“Our community has provided services to about 3,500 visitors in the first half of this year and we expect at least 500 more [climbers] by the end of 2019,” says Chhim.
Local guides recommend visitors spend at least three days and two nights in the forest, which is enough to discover hidden treasures, explore haunted sites and bird watch for rare and exquisite species which call the far eastern edge of the Cardamom Mountains home.
There are a number of rare birds, including the chestnut-headed partridge (identifiable by white strips above its wings and white stripes below its belly) and Cambodian Laughingthrush – both of which are only found in Cambodia, according to Chhim.
Rattana says that almshouses nestled in the bamboo forests served as an oasis of sorts. The first one – about 3km into the trek – had a small space for cooking and access to enough water to satisfy up to five to six people.
Often climbers choose to quicken their pace and skip the first almshouse in order to recover at the Hermit Stop almshouse – which is not only larger, but also has more water (particularly in the rainy season).
“Most climbers leave behind supplies and water for people behind them,” reveals Rattana.
There are a number of rare birds, including the chestnut-headed partridge, identifiable by white strips above its wings and white stripes below its belly, and the Cambodian Laughingthrush. Hong Menea
Eight kilometres from the first alm house is the final rest area – where visitors who prefer not to camp outside spend the night in a cool, solar-powered wooden hut with additional structures adjacent to them centring a shrine. Be warned, however, as temperatures there can drop as low as six degrees Celsius.
There, visitors make it a point to see the remains of a Cambodian International Airlines plane which crashed in 1974.
“Even though it was overrun by plants and moss years ago, the quality of the metal is still good,” says Theang Soth – who has been guiding climbers since 2002.
“You can even see remnants such as clothing and aircraft debris that still remain because Cambodian’s believe that it’s bad to take belongings from the dead,” adds Soth, 47.
It’s experiences like this that make people stop in their tracks and forgo the frivolities of snapping selfies in order to appreciate the preciousness of their journey.
Always the adventurers, Rattana and his friends didn’t pack any camping equipment – preferring to drink water through natural sources, filtered through small filtration devices, and dining on dried and ready-to-eat meals.
“We didn’t have to bring many things, even clothes; we only brought a few changes, one to wear and one to keep in by backpack. As I ascend, I wash the used clothing and put on a fresh T-shirt and shorts,” says Rattana.
Aside from Srae Ken Commune, where Rattana and his friends chose to begin their climb, additional tours are offered in nearby Outou and Trapang Chhrey communes.
Commune chief Chhim recommends hiring local guides to help navigate the potentially treacherous terrain and to help carry supplies. The service costs $35 per day for international tourists, who can also pre-order food for their climb.
The road leading to Srae Ken can be bumpy – with large rocks and potholes leading to the commune – visitors should allot at least half a day for a tractor ride to reach the foot of the mountain.
Those intimidated by the thought of undertaking the feat should know that it was the first time Rattana had ever tried mountain climbing.
“It was my first experience and now I have reached the highest mountain in country with my friends,” boasts Rattana.
He added that the most difficult part of the journey was the 3km trek through bamboo forest.
”It’s hot and stuffy because it’s dense. If possible, it’s best to begin early in the morning.
“If we had begun our summit in the late morning, we would hardly be able to breathe and it would prevent us from reaching the mountain’s peak.”
~Phnom Penh Post~
King Sihamoni presides over opening of Water Festival
King Norodom Sihamoni presided over the lighting of the lantern barges, representing the many ministries, in front of the Royal Palace on Sunday as the first day of the annual Water Festival celebrations went smoothly.
Bun Veasna, an official at the National Committee for Organising National and International Festivals, told The Post on Sunday that the first day of the festival had gone smoothly.
Government leaders including Prime Minister Hun Sen, Senate President Say Chhum, President of the National Assembly Heng Samrin and Minister of Interior Sar Kheng attended the event with the King.
“The first boat racing event went smoothly like every year. We finished the first round in the morning, and finished the second in the afternoon,” Veasna said.
National Police said they had deployed nearly 20,000 police officers in Phnom Penh to provide security at the festival, which ends on Tuesday.
On his Facebook page, Prime Minister Hun Sen said Cambodians were enjoying the festival with big smiles on their faces. He said security forces were safeguarding the participants as well as the boat crews.
“Besides enjoying the boat racing on the river, people can shop at many stalls. May I wish all our compatriots happiness and good luck,” Hun Sen wrote.
Festival goer Sok Chea said he was enjoying himself as it was one of the biggest events of the year. He said he never misses it.
“There are fewer people here today compared to the first day of the Water Festival last year. But I think there will be more people tomorrow,” Chea said.
Daun Ley from Phnom Penh said she appreciated the security arrangements that had enabled her to enjoy the festival without fear.
“Along the streets, it is very safe because there is security taking care of us. I have no concerns and I am enjoying myself,” Ley said.
Boat racing on the Tonle Sap river on Sunday.
~Phnom Penh Post~
