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战乱与和平 一探柬埔寨红色时期的历史
战乱与和平 一探柬埔寨红色时期的历史
闻名于世的“高棉微笑”，独特精致的石雕，令人叹为观止。（薛渤杨摄）
作者在吴哥窟感受到诸神的纯净，在战争博物馆看到的展品让他感受到红高棉时期的悲惨。
提起柬埔寨，人们第一个想到的也许就是吴哥窟（Angkor Wat）。说实话，自己对这个陌生的国家一直没有太多感觉，直到耳朵被“西哈诺亲王”、“红色高棉”词条磨出了茧子，才决定展开这次的柬埔寨三天之旅。
背上行囊，坐上TukTuk，我们在柬埔寨西北城市暹粒观看吴哥的建筑，触碰高棉的文化。
吴哥窟建造者透彻领悟人性
荒烟蔓草，伫立在古老文明的吴哥寺中央眺望远方。
“Angkor”即“城市”，“Wat”则是“寺庙”的意思。它曾是古高棉王国的首都，与埃及金字塔、中国万里长城、印度尼西亚婆罗浮屠千佛坛并称为东方四大奇观，同时也是世界七大奇迹之一。
游玩吴哥窟，多少还是要事先简单了解一下它的历史，不然真的只是走马观花。吴哥城初建于九世纪，是东南亚史上最宏伟的一座都城，其鼎盛时期据估算，人口达到上百万，规模之大远超罗马城。
公元1431年，泰国人入侵高棉，高棉人被迫离开吴哥，在金边建立了新的首都，从此吴哥湮没在丛林之中。直到1860年，法国植物学家亨利·穆奥（Henri Mouhot）为了收集植物标本来到暹粒，吴哥城才得以重见天日。
吴哥城里建筑墙体都呈现出一种青铜色，冰冷、沉重，仿佛给人一种快要窒息的感觉。
墙上的头像矗立千年，诸神姿态栩栩如生，历经风雨微笑依旧。这些笑脸安详而静谧，从容又纯净，仿佛有一种穿越时空与万物的力量，令人震撼。
台湾知名画家、诗人与作家蒋勋在《吴哥之美》中曾写到：“吴哥寺被誉为建筑的奇迹，奇迹是建造者如此透彻领悟人性。他并不是在盖房子，他为这个城市留下心灵的空间，是‘城中之城’，是肉身里心灵的留白。”
在实地探访之后，这段话非常值得反复咀嚼，回味无穷。
吴哥的修复工作一直在进行，直到现在也没有结束。《古墓奇兵》《花样年华》等电影都曾于此取景。
残酷的红高棉大屠杀
位于暹粒的战争博物馆，锈迹斑斑的军事装备随处可见。
至于柬埔寨的近代史，更是令人为之震撼。早前因为对红高棉大屠杀这段残酷历史有所耳闻，因此当天的行程特意让导游安排参观博物馆。
先简单介绍一下柬埔寨的近代史：1863年，柬埔寨沦为法国保护国，1940年被日军占领，1945年日本投降后又被法国重新占领。柬埔寨在1953年11月9日宣布独立，但却在60年代爆发内战。先是政变，然后在波博执政时期发生了骇人听闻的红高棉大屠杀，四年期间（1975年至1979年）期间杀死了200多万人（相当于柬埔寨四分之一的人口），再到越南1978年入侵（解放）柬埔寨并于1989年撤军后，柬埔寨才逐渐恢复和平。
导游带我们来到了一个特别不起眼的战争博物馆。坦白讲，来到这个博物馆大门时，我并没有对它抱有太高的期望，但是在买完门票进来后（只花了5美元，约6.70新元），一切都改变了。
据说，博物馆本身就位于一个古老的地雷场和杀戮场，它记录着一段残酷可悲的战争历史。大部分展品都是锈迹斑斑的军事装备，包括枪支和弹药。整个博物馆并不花哨，但它给人的那种身临其境之感，让人真切感受到了红高棉时期的悲惨。
最引人注目的是展示这些故事的信息板，字里行间透露着当时的恐怖生活氛围，揭露了当年波博执政时期的黑暗。
美国、苏联、越南和中国都为当年柬埔寨战争提供过武器和炸弹。原始照片让人百感交集，看到红高棉制服更是让人毛骨悚然。
三天时间很短，这趟柬埔寨暹粒之行是一场文化之旅，吴哥窟得玩，但这战争博物馆更是不能错过。和平不易，以史为鉴。
~联合早报~
闻名于世的“高棉微笑”，独特精致的石雕，令人叹为观止。（薛渤杨摄）
作者在吴哥窟感受到诸神的纯净，在战争博物馆看到的展品让他感受到红高棉时期的悲惨。
提起柬埔寨，人们第一个想到的也许就是吴哥窟（Angkor Wat）。说实话，自己对这个陌生的国家一直没有太多感觉，直到耳朵被“西哈诺亲王”、“红色高棉”词条磨出了茧子，才决定展开这次的柬埔寨三天之旅。
背上行囊，坐上TukTuk，我们在柬埔寨西北城市暹粒观看吴哥的建筑，触碰高棉的文化。
吴哥窟建造者透彻领悟人性
荒烟蔓草，伫立在古老文明的吴哥寺中央眺望远方。
“Angkor”即“城市”，“Wat”则是“寺庙”的意思。它曾是古高棉王国的首都，与埃及金字塔、中国万里长城、印度尼西亚婆罗浮屠千佛坛并称为东方四大奇观，同时也是世界七大奇迹之一。
游玩吴哥窟，多少还是要事先简单了解一下它的历史，不然真的只是走马观花。吴哥城初建于九世纪，是东南亚史上最宏伟的一座都城，其鼎盛时期据估算，人口达到上百万，规模之大远超罗马城。
公元1431年，泰国人入侵高棉，高棉人被迫离开吴哥，在金边建立了新的首都，从此吴哥湮没在丛林之中。直到1860年，法国植物学家亨利·穆奥（Henri Mouhot）为了收集植物标本来到暹粒，吴哥城才得以重见天日。
吴哥城里建筑墙体都呈现出一种青铜色，冰冷、沉重，仿佛给人一种快要窒息的感觉。
墙上的头像矗立千年，诸神姿态栩栩如生，历经风雨微笑依旧。这些笑脸安详而静谧，从容又纯净，仿佛有一种穿越时空与万物的力量，令人震撼。
台湾知名画家、诗人与作家蒋勋在《吴哥之美》中曾写到：“吴哥寺被誉为建筑的奇迹，奇迹是建造者如此透彻领悟人性。他并不是在盖房子，他为这个城市留下心灵的空间，是‘城中之城’，是肉身里心灵的留白。”
在实地探访之后，这段话非常值得反复咀嚼，回味无穷。
吴哥的修复工作一直在进行，直到现在也没有结束。《古墓奇兵》《花样年华》等电影都曾于此取景。
残酷的红高棉大屠杀
位于暹粒的战争博物馆，锈迹斑斑的军事装备随处可见。
至于柬埔寨的近代史，更是令人为之震撼。早前因为对红高棉大屠杀这段残酷历史有所耳闻，因此当天的行程特意让导游安排参观博物馆。
先简单介绍一下柬埔寨的近代史：1863年，柬埔寨沦为法国保护国，1940年被日军占领，1945年日本投降后又被法国重新占领。柬埔寨在1953年11月9日宣布独立，但却在60年代爆发内战。先是政变，然后在波博执政时期发生了骇人听闻的红高棉大屠杀，四年期间（1975年至1979年）期间杀死了200多万人（相当于柬埔寨四分之一的人口），再到越南1978年入侵（解放）柬埔寨并于1989年撤军后，柬埔寨才逐渐恢复和平。
导游带我们来到了一个特别不起眼的战争博物馆。坦白讲，来到这个博物馆大门时，我并没有对它抱有太高的期望，但是在买完门票进来后（只花了5美元，约6.70新元），一切都改变了。
据说，博物馆本身就位于一个古老的地雷场和杀戮场，它记录着一段残酷可悲的战争历史。大部分展品都是锈迹斑斑的军事装备，包括枪支和弹药。整个博物馆并不花哨，但它给人的那种身临其境之感，让人真切感受到了红高棉时期的悲惨。
最引人注目的是展示这些故事的信息板，字里行间透露着当时的恐怖生活氛围，揭露了当年波博执政时期的黑暗。
美国、苏联、越南和中国都为当年柬埔寨战争提供过武器和炸弹。原始照片让人百感交集，看到红高棉制服更是让人毛骨悚然。
三天时间很短，这趟柬埔寨暹粒之行是一场文化之旅，吴哥窟得玩，但这战争博物馆更是不能错过。和平不易，以史为鉴。
~联合早报~
Wednesday, January 1, 2020
Monday, November 25, 2019
The motodop driver, porter who guides tourists in Phnom Tbeng
The motodop driver, porter who guides tourists in Phnom Tbeng
A view of the Tbeng Meanchey natural heritage site in Preah Vihear province. Yousos Apdoulrashim
Rem Thoeun is one of many villagers who live near the peak of Phnom Tbeng, earning his income in the eco-tourism sector at Preah Vihear province’s Tbeng Meanchey natural heritage site.
Thoeun earns most of his living as a motodop driver (a motorbike taxi rider) transporting tourists to popular local attractions – including Tbeng Waterfall, the Three Rock Pagoda and the Taing You waterfall and pagoda – in and around Phnom Tbeng.
But he also works as a porter, carrying things from the mountain’s foot to the peak.
Thoeun says his only option is to take up jobs requiring hard labour to support his family as he did not have educational opportunities as a child.
Some 24 years ago, when the last remnants of Pol Pot’s Khmer Rouge militants were fighting the government, Thoeun’s family moved him from the line of fire and went to find a better life on the mountain.
Thoeun, 27, told The Post: “I’ve lived here since I was three years old when my parents moved us from Kulen district because of the fighting.
“They were worried about safety and kept shifting from place to place before finally settling on Phnom Tbeng. After the whole country was freed of the rebels, we decided to remain here permanently, even though at the time we barely survived going up and down the mountain [for money].”
Growing up on the mountain, Thoeun did not have the opportunity to study at school or learn a trade.
So though he now wants to find a new job outside his backbreaking labour on Phnom Tbeng, Thoeun says he does not know what else he can do.
Rem Thoeun (second left) says his only option is to take up jobs requiring hard labour to support his family as he did not have educational opportunities as a child. Hong Menea
“I want to find a job in town but I don‘t know what to do. I want to start a new life that can earn me a higher income.
“I first studied in Grade 2 when I was 15, but I found it difficult as I was pretty old for that low grade,” says the illiterate father of two.
Driving a tourist on the back of his motorbike, Thoeun navigates along the muddy trail, taking the time to describe the scenery to his passenger.
Driving past a stack of rocks he remarks, “they [locals] are superstitious about this place. They believe if they can pile the rocks up high, it will boost their fortunes”.
On the days when Thoeun works as a guide, he picks up his customers around 9am. They have lunch at Dombok Khmao Pagoda before heading to a waterfall located about 1km from the temple.
Thoeun says tourists also love hiking to the Three Rock Pagoda before visiting Taing You waterfall and pagoda.
Tourists can choose to spend a night at Taing You Pagoda or return in the evening, with a round trip costing 150,000 riel ($37) per person.
Thoeun says: “Most tourists hike up Phnom Tbeng via the 1,345 steps of the Three Rock Pagoda. Then, they head to Taing You temple and the waterfall. There is another option ... they can take the 15km trek up an unpaved trail from Bakkam village, in Chheanmuk commune, but it is not popular.”
Rem Thoeun (second left) says his only option is to take up jobs requiring hard labour to support his family as he did not have educational opportunities as a child. Hong Menea
At the Three Rock Pagoda, where his client prayed for happiness at the shrine and enjoyed the valley view from the mountain top, Thoeun takes a break and sips a cold drink at a small store.
He is stood among a dozen porters standing at the mountain peak, waiting to receive bookings for porter and transport jobs.
“I also work as a porter to carry things to the mountain peak. But sometimes I have nothing to do as most people don’t bring heavy items and they don’t know we offer such services,” says Thoeun.
Like the other porters, Thoeun gets 30,000 riel to carry a load of between 30 and 40kg.
“Occasionally, generous people give me 40,000 to 50,000 riel to carry a pack of milled rice. I can carry things about three or four times per day. But usually, I only get one job per day, or nothing at all,” he says.
For those who plan to visit Phnom Tbeng and need transportation, Thoeun can be contacted via telephone (088 773 3062).
~Phnom Penh Post~
A view of the Tbeng Meanchey natural heritage site in Preah Vihear province. Yousos Apdoulrashim
Rem Thoeun is one of many villagers who live near the peak of Phnom Tbeng, earning his income in the eco-tourism sector at Preah Vihear province’s Tbeng Meanchey natural heritage site.
Thoeun earns most of his living as a motodop driver (a motorbike taxi rider) transporting tourists to popular local attractions – including Tbeng Waterfall, the Three Rock Pagoda and the Taing You waterfall and pagoda – in and around Phnom Tbeng.
But he also works as a porter, carrying things from the mountain’s foot to the peak.
Thoeun says his only option is to take up jobs requiring hard labour to support his family as he did not have educational opportunities as a child.
Some 24 years ago, when the last remnants of Pol Pot’s Khmer Rouge militants were fighting the government, Thoeun’s family moved him from the line of fire and went to find a better life on the mountain.
Thoeun, 27, told The Post: “I’ve lived here since I was three years old when my parents moved us from Kulen district because of the fighting.
“They were worried about safety and kept shifting from place to place before finally settling on Phnom Tbeng. After the whole country was freed of the rebels, we decided to remain here permanently, even though at the time we barely survived going up and down the mountain [for money].”
Growing up on the mountain, Thoeun did not have the opportunity to study at school or learn a trade.
So though he now wants to find a new job outside his backbreaking labour on Phnom Tbeng, Thoeun says he does not know what else he can do.
Rem Thoeun (second left) says his only option is to take up jobs requiring hard labour to support his family as he did not have educational opportunities as a child. Hong Menea
“I want to find a job in town but I don‘t know what to do. I want to start a new life that can earn me a higher income.
“I first studied in Grade 2 when I was 15, but I found it difficult as I was pretty old for that low grade,” says the illiterate father of two.
Driving a tourist on the back of his motorbike, Thoeun navigates along the muddy trail, taking the time to describe the scenery to his passenger.
Driving past a stack of rocks he remarks, “they [locals] are superstitious about this place. They believe if they can pile the rocks up high, it will boost their fortunes”.
On the days when Thoeun works as a guide, he picks up his customers around 9am. They have lunch at Dombok Khmao Pagoda before heading to a waterfall located about 1km from the temple.
Thoeun says tourists also love hiking to the Three Rock Pagoda before visiting Taing You waterfall and pagoda.
Tourists can choose to spend a night at Taing You Pagoda or return in the evening, with a round trip costing 150,000 riel ($37) per person.
Thoeun says: “Most tourists hike up Phnom Tbeng via the 1,345 steps of the Three Rock Pagoda. Then, they head to Taing You temple and the waterfall. There is another option ... they can take the 15km trek up an unpaved trail from Bakkam village, in Chheanmuk commune, but it is not popular.”
Rem Thoeun (second left) says his only option is to take up jobs requiring hard labour to support his family as he did not have educational opportunities as a child. Hong Menea
At the Three Rock Pagoda, where his client prayed for happiness at the shrine and enjoyed the valley view from the mountain top, Thoeun takes a break and sips a cold drink at a small store.
He is stood among a dozen porters standing at the mountain peak, waiting to receive bookings for porter and transport jobs.
“I also work as a porter to carry things to the mountain peak. But sometimes I have nothing to do as most people don’t bring heavy items and they don’t know we offer such services,” says Thoeun.
Like the other porters, Thoeun gets 30,000 riel to carry a load of between 30 and 40kg.
“Occasionally, generous people give me 40,000 to 50,000 riel to carry a pack of milled rice. I can carry things about three or four times per day. But usually, I only get one job per day, or nothing at all,” he says.
For those who plan to visit Phnom Tbeng and need transportation, Thoeun can be contacted via telephone (088 773 3062).
~Phnom Penh Post~
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